Simply heavenly at The Angel Food fans have had their prayers answered in Holmesfield with new owners bringing new direction to a favourite old pub and restaurant. Mike Firth pays it a visit
YOU can't get much further from the coast than Holmesfield but The Angel offers some of the freshest fish around.
Deliveries arrive four times a week and that was one of the reasons why my creamy Seafood Chowder was the most delicious I had ever enjoyed. The talents of owner/chef Jerry Buckingham might well have had something to do with it too; he has been in the food business since he was 16 and his CV includes spells at the prestigious Cavendish at Baslow and The Riverside at Ashford-in-the-Water.
For the past 15 years Jerry has run The Millstone at Hathersage, a venue he has retained since taking over at The Angel towards the end of 2009. He operates The Angel with brother Nigel.
The Angel's menu is like no other in the area, offering a whole page of gluten-free creations and another page of extremely tempting veggie options. Elsewhere in the listings you will find a wide range of dishes to suit adventurous diners and those who enjoy the taste of tradition. All are created from fresh ingredients.
The Angel's selection of "Devilishly Different" Tapas food can be enjoyed as a meal in itself or a starter to share. Options range from snails and calamari through to chicken wings and black pudding and portions cost £3.50, or £10 for four selections.
The main menu is supplemented by a list of daily specials and it took wife Helen and myself quite a while to make up our minds as we relaxed in the venue's attractive conservatory.
My Chowder starter (£5.25) was simply splendid, the kind of dish where you never want to reach the bottom of the bowl. I'm sure I will be back for more. Helen's first course, Crispy Duck Leg with Chinese Pancakes (£5.95), was also a substantial offering, being served with all the trimmings and she said the meat was cooked to perfection.
After such a thoroughly enjoyable start to our meals we wondered what Gerry had in store for our main courses.
Pork Fillet wrapped in Smoked Bacon (£12.50) was my choice and not only did the dish look a picture, it tasted fantastic too and the meat was particularly tender. The wholegrain mustard sauce set the dish off a treat.
Unusually for her, Helen had opted for a fish dish and she was again well pleased with her selection; Grilled White Tuna (£11.95) presented with mussels in a garlic cream sauce. We shared a bowl of roast vegetables.
We agreed that Jerry's outstanding sauces had transformed excellent meals into spectacular creations.
A couple of restaurants we had visited recently had let themselves down when it came to desserts, but it certainly was not the case at The Angel. My substantial Eton Mess (£4) was just about as messy - and tasty - as you could imagine and Helen's Maple Syrup Creme Brulee (£4) was eagerly devoured.
After several changes of ownership, The Angel is clearly back on a roll with Jerry at the helm. It has a striking new carpet, the open fire was roaring away on the evening we called and the bar offers a selection of quality cask beers. Word is clearly spreading rather quickly because a number of vehicles filled the car park on what we had guessed was going to be a quiet January Tuesday evening.
We spotted a lunchtime menu offering two courses for £10.50 (£7.95 for senior citizens) and for those with lighter appetites there were listings including baguettes and even egg, chips and beans.
The Angel, Main Road, Holmesfield, S18 7WT. Tel 0114 2890336. Winter opening: Tue 6-11pm, Wed-Sat 12-3 & 6-11, Sun 12-3 & 8-11. Closed Mon. Menu available to read at www.angel@holmesfield.co.uk
